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(05) The Transition Zone
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Rode Hard 

5.11c

   

FA: Lance Hadfield, Bryan Pletta, and Mark Thomas
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Views: 169 page views

Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Nov 6, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: Yeah it's pretty roofy.


Description 

Don't miss this one! Great climbing. The climb can be recognized by three large roofs that the bolt line goes through. Start below the first roof and head straight up. After clipping the third bolt, a reachy move gets you past the large second roof (think, hand Jam, though I have heard of people finding a crimp somewhere). Technical climbing and stemming through the rest of the climb gets you to the anchors.


Protection 

8 bolts to anchors.



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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 17, 2006

This route has the best rock at Palomas. For a second I thought I was at Rifle, but then I clipped the chains after 35 feet, and I knew it wasn't so.

By Dave Wachter
Mar 2, 2008

Best 11c in New Mexico! When you reach the anchors (at least 50ft, though I'll agree it's no rope-stretcher) you won't likely find yourself needing more. Steep and juggy, to steep and technical, to just over vertical and technical. Climbs like a 12a, and could get that rating at some crags. Can get a tenuous rest or two after the roof crux, but this route is characterized by sustained difficult climbing.

By Jason J Patton
May 18, 2009

This thing is way harder than Lucky Boy 11c, Quick Draw Mcgraw 11b/c and I think harder than Gunslinger 11d. its certainly more sustained than any of the above. So 11c? 11d? 12a? aah who cares, its a great climb!