Start at the right side of the cave where the cave pinches off. Climb up the dihedral to the overhang. Take the hand traverse to the right and turn the roof. This line recently got another bolt added by popular demand to prevent ledging-out at the crux (end of the traverse out from the OH). That bolt was subsequently nearly pulled out on a lead fall, so I went back and put a 12mm bolt instead of a 3/8" just for good measure.
Kind of funky up the corner. Plenty of choss, some of it glued. I'd call it hard 5.10 (not 5.10-), but hey, it's Big Block.
By RiggerMortis From: Albuquerque New Mexico Mar 5, 2009 rating: 5.9+
More intimidating to look at than to actually do. Passing the second bolt is a scary, but surprisingly easy layback move. Once you get up into the corner under the roof there's a really nice rest to be had with good feet. Standing up on the ledge outside the roof and going for the anchors is a little nervy, too, but again, more of a headgame than anything. If you rope solo this as a lead (I did), bring a prussik or two, or maybe an ascender to get positioned to remove the quickdraw under the roof. I spent more time and energy getting my shit back than I did climbing the route. Could have avoided the hassel with a pair of Purcell Prussiks. Hindsight...
There's a really pretty clam fossil embedded in the wall at the hand traverse, too:)
By Robin From: Albuquerque, NM Jun 2, 2009 rating: 5.10a
I think this is one of the better leads at the crag. Definitely scarier looking that it actually turns out to be.
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