Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
BETA PHOTO: New Mexico Climbing Areas.
Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountainproject!
As noted by Tim Toula in Rock and Road, "The west is still wild as far as climbing in New Mexico goes." Though difficult to compare to Utah or Colorado in terms of amount of climbing, the diversity of climbing around the state is tremendous.
While there are many routes in New Mexico currently documented, many are currently UN-DOCUMENTED. Please, add new areas and new routes as you set and climb them, so that others may enjoy these fine climbs!
NORTHERN NEW MEXICO
Areas from the Colorado/ NM state line to Interstate 40 (though not including around the Albuquerque Area). Areas are Listed from North to South.
- Brazos Cliffs: A wild span of cliffs in Northern New Mexico, just south of Chama. Unfortunately, this area is on private land and access is difficult.
- Questa Dome: Difficult granite in an adventurous wilderness setting. Multi-pitch traditional routes (with many 1/4 inch bolts).
- Tres Piedras: "Three rocks". Low angle to vertical granite climbing, mostly moderate in grade.
- Red River Area: Well protected routes on vertical to low angle granite.
- Taos Area: Includes several basalt crags outside the beautiful town of Taos.
- El Rito: Great sport climbing, think mini-maple canyon (Utah). Great slabby to overhanging cobblestone routes. Some mellow traditional climbing here as well.
- Jemez Valley Area: From granite to welded tuft to travertine; single pitch, multi-pitch, and bouldering, this area has various types of rock and styles of climbing and bouldering in the beautiful setting of the Jemez Mountains! This area includes: Gillman Tunnels, Battleship Rock, Crystal Cave, Area 37, and Las Conchas.
- Diablo Canyon: Single to multi-pitch, sport and trad, less than vertical to overhanging. A nice variety of climbing on excellent to poor quality basalt.
- Apache Canyon Bouldering: A large overhanging chunk of sandstone with at least 20 different variations. Just 20 minutes outside of Santa Fe.
- Pecos River Canyon: Picturesque granite crag northeast of Santa Fe, NM.
- Truchas Peaks: The Truchas Peaks area of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains in Northern New Mexico offers a high abundance of quality, secluded hiking and mountain adventure.
- New Mexico Navajolands: As it is tribal land, climbing is not allowed without special permission. However, it has been included for historical significance.
CENTRAL NEW MEXICO
Includes areas generally South of I-40 and the Albuquerque area south to Truth or Consequences.
- Mentmore (Gallup): Out there by it's lonesome in the northwestern part of the state, near the town of Gallup. Enjoy single pitch sport sandstone climbing with mostly moderate grades.
- Church Rock: A tower that is also near Gallup. One two pitch route goes up this tower. Beautiful area.
- El Malpais National Monument: Not known as a destination, but some climbing available in the soft Zuni-sandstone bluffs on the east side of the monument.
- Tunnel Springs: An area currently featuring short, sustained climbs on moderate quality, sharp limestone. A short distance from Albuquerque.
- Sandia Mountains: Not far outside of Albuquerque, If alpine adventure and long approaches your taste, head into the Sandia back-country.
- Palomas Peak: Technical limestone sport climbing within the Sandia Mountains.
- U-Mound: Granite bouldering in the foothills of the Sandia Mountains.
- Big Block: A small limestone crag just outside of Albuquerque.
- New Canyon: Small, little known limestone climbing area near the town of Manzano. Climbs 40-50 foot vertical to less than vertical routes.
- Enchanted Tower: AMAZING sport routes on a beautiful formation. This pocketed tower is home to the best sport climbing in the state.
- Socorro: This area has a series of cliffs and boulders of mixed-quality rhyolite. Great winter area!
SOUTHERN NEW MEXICO
Areas South of Truth or Consequences to the bottom of the state.
- The Tunnel: Outside the town of Alamagordo. Expect difficult limestone sport climbing here (highest concentration of difficult climbing in the state.)
- City of Rocks: A nice bouldering area northwest of Las Cruces.
- Dona Ana Mountains: Rock is similar to that of the Organ mountains without the long approaches. Bouldering to single and multipitch climbing.
- Organ Mountains: Outside of Las Cruces. Mostly traditional climbing with adventurous route finding(mmmmm spiky things) and long routes.
- Sitting Bull Falls: Remote, but with high quality limestone routes ranging from moderate to wildly overhanging and difficult.
- Last Chance Canyon: Excellent limestone cragging near Queen, New Mexico.
Resources:
Currently, the most comprehensive book on climbing in New Mexico is “Rock Climbing New Mexico & Texas” by Dennis R. Jackson. This book has been recently updated and re-released in 2006.
“Jemez Rock”, by J. Marc Beverly,
"Taos Rock Climbs & Boulders of Northern New Mexico" by Jay Foley, Sharp End Books, 2005. Great book on climbing in Northern New Mexico.
New Mexico Climbing Related Links
Online area guides will be posted in appropriate sections. Here is a list of climbing information around new mexico that might be of interest (please let me know if you know of any additional links by adding comments, thanks):
- Some Southern New Mexico Climbing Links (including the Ingraham Organ Mtns. guide, topos for Percha Creek, etc. Not updated frequently but you might find something useful):
A beautiful slightly-overhanging-but-locker finger crack with 'just enough' footholds on the face goes to a bulge where the rock changes texture near the top. Here, a solitary hand jam provides a welcome rest before a couple of thin, cruxy face moves to easier ground. Bear a little to the right up high to reach the anchors. Originally rated 5.11c/d, but general consensus is that this is a notch or two easier....[more]
For the climber on the road there are a number of small climbing areas in New Mexico that are worth a visit. For sport climbers, the Enchanted Tower and El Rito are probably the best option. Both areas offer steep jug hauling. For traditional climbers; the Sandias, the Organs, Tres Piedras, and Questa Dome are each worth a short visit. The bouldering in New Mexico is also pretty good. Ponderosa and Socorro are two of the more popular bouldering areas.
J. Marc Beverly's book "Jemez Rock & Pecos Area"--Sharp End Publishing (2006) 270 pp. is now on the shelves of your favorite reseller. It retails for $28.
Does anyone know the latest on Sugarite SP? I was surprised not to see it on here since there are some routes still in place. It's a fun crag, hopefully it'll be re-developed someday.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Oct 4, 2007
Please note that comments on the geology of The Dungeon have been moved to The Dungeon area.
By John J. Glime From: Salt Lake City, UT Feb 1, 2008
Whoever wrote up a brief description of each area on this page, AWESOME! Thank you! Great idea that should spread to each state's page. Super useful.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Feb 4, 2008
Thanks! Glad you like it.
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Denver, CO Feb 25, 2008
Please note that the comments regarding Last Chance Canyon have been moved to the Last Chance Canyon Area.
Does anyone climb in the El Porvenir canyon outside of Las Vegas? I remember that there were some decent faces most of which hadn't had much climbing activity?
New Mexico
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