Seven pitches as described in guidebook; my partner and I chose to do it in five. Despite book description, some parts DO have loose rock/flakes - just be aware, especially if parties are above you (unlikely). I pulled off a sneaker-sized handhold on pitch 1.
As climbed by myself and my partner:
P1: Climb up to the small ledge with a small tree, then continue up slightly right along the line of least resistance. When you reach a bulge/small roof, traverse left to better holds, either low (friction only) or high along the small roof-like feature (gaston move). Crux. Continue to the huge, obvious pine tree visible from the ground. ~180 feet, rope drag can be issue if linking pitches.
P2: Climb up and slightly to the right toward the next big tree. I believe I remember a piton here. You can choose to take the very easy slab/gully to the right, or attack the headwall/arete to the left (~5.8ish, preferred). For the wall, save a .75 camalot for the crux - the leader can reach high to protect if he/she is at least 5'9" or so.
P3: Follow easy ground up and fairly far to the right. When you reach the spectacular 5.5 hands crack go straight up. The exposure on this pitch makes the whole climb worth it. Belay when convenient in the crack.
P4: Continue up the crack, tackle a couple of steeper bulges. Here the guidebook indicates going right - being without said guidebook, we went left to the trees to belay.
P5: Bushwack/scramble about 20 yards back to find another headwall. There are several face routes protected by bolts - both seem to be in the 5.6 range, but are very lichen-covered. Continue up until 5th class terrain ends, about 80 feet.
This is not exactly as described by the book - we linked some pitches and went left at the end instead of right, but emphasis of the route is tricky beginning and spectacular hand crack.
Location
From the "toe" of White's Ledge, look ~20 feet to left for the obvious weakness leading to a small ledge with a small tree (more of a bush).
For descent, take the trail from Mt. Stanton back down to the road/houses.
Protection
Generally good, although a little tricky on our first pitch. Tri-cams can be helpful here. Other than that, we took a set of nuts and single cams from 00 Metolius Master cams to #2 C4 Camalots.
By nhclimber From: Nottingham, NH Aug 17, 2009 rating: 5.7
There is a nice 10a variation to the traditional second pitch. From the left side of the ledge at the end of pitch 1, move up the steepening wall clipping 3 bolts as you go then cut back right to join the second pitch. I think that it is a paul cormier variation. nice climbing.
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