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Waiting for Comeau 

5.9

   

FA: A. Comeau A.Dow D. stone 1979
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 150 feet
Views: 126 page views

Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 5, 2007


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Jakob climbing and me belaying on waiting for come...


Description 

An awesome route that sees little traffic but deserves more.... It's like combining the cruxes of Three Birches and Bombardment in to one pitch.... You start by heading up a corner, then traversing to the right under a roof (not as hard and more fun than the Three Birches roof section), then you go up a crack and at a pair of old pins, make a tough move left across a slab to the left-leaning crack that can be loosely compared to Bombardment (5.8).... As the crack ends, you climb straight up to a two bolt anchor....


Location 

The far left end of the slabs just to the right of Short Order.... Look for the corner leading to a roof heading right....


Protection 

Normal rack.... Finger-sized cams low down and bigger up top.... A couple pins at the halfway point.... Use long runners on everything....

One 60m rope stretch rappel will put you back on the ground....



Add Photo Photos of Waiting for Comeau
me about halfway up...

me about halfway up...

just finishing the roof section...

just finishing the roof section...

Jakob belaying me up the start.... A good view of Short Order in the background....

Jakob belaying me up the start.... A good view of ...


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By john strand
Jun 12, 2008

Try the direct start 5.10 no gear but really not to bad. It can also be top roped after the initial arch.

john