A really nice route that involves lots of friction and a steep bulge near the top to remind you how to use your hands.... Put up by Ed Webster and Alain Comeau, 2 guys with eyes for good routes this one is a must do if you love friction.... A nice choice if the more popular routes are packed; however, that makes this popular on a busy day, too....
Pitch 1: (5.2) Motor up the slab for 160 ft. to a 2 bolt anchor on a stance....
Pitch 2: Continue straight up clipping a fixed pin and passing to the right of the first arch.... Belay at a 2 bolt ring anchor at the right edge of the second arch....
Pitch 3: (5.5) Smear up and left to a wide white streak and up the streak left of the head wall to a 2 bolt anchor....
Pitch 4: (5.7) Move up on laybacks and left.... Continue up the slab on the left side of the white streak to the base of a shallow, left-facing corner. Clip a pin and move up and right to a bolt.... The climbing is steeper here for a few moves.... The slab above the bolt can be heady, keep it together to the overlap where you get good gear before mantling on to a mossy slab with a thin streak of clean rock just enough to help you get to the big tree with slings on it at the left side of a large tree ledge....
Rap down...4 two rope raps....
Location
On the left side of the slabs.... Start below twin, right-arching corner overlaps and a prominent white streak....
4 double rope raps from the tree....
Protection
Standard rack plus tri-cams.... Two ropes for rapping off....
lee, have you ever had the chance to do the 8+/9- variation? from the third pitch anchor move left after the flake and move up under the overlap left of the 5.7. clip a bolt on the edge of the overlap and make an awkward matle/rockover move. climb up and right to a two bolt anchor even with the last pitch's tree anchor......
I think the variation Casey talks about is well worth doing. If I remember correctly, the moves are cool and pretty well protected. Plus you get to go to a bolted belay instead of a tree belay.
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