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Standard Route 

5.5 R

   
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FA: Underhill, Towie, Spring 1928
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.5 [details]
Length: 9 pitches, 1100 feet
Views: 789 page views

Submitted By: Guy Humphrey on Jan 18, 2007


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Simul climbing the slabs with the wife...


Description 

This route may rival the 3rd Flatiron as the best easy multi pitch climb in the states. Although the climbing is relatively easy, there are huge runouts (30-50ft) and few features.

P1 (5.0R 100ft) Scramble up to the Launch Pad.
P2 (5.1R 110ft) Angle up and right past a few flakes. (Toilet Bowl Pitch)
P3 (5.2R 150ft) Head straight up past two bolts and a flake mid pitch. Belay on a ledge with large crystals.
P4 (5.3R 100ft) Head straight up passing a few cool pockets. (tricams) Belay in the underlapping crack.
P5 (5.4 130ft) Follow the arching crack, pull the through at an intersecting arch (~60ft) and belay on a ledge. (Lunch Ledge)
P6 (5.5R 120ft) Head straight right past 2-3 bolts, head up the arching crack, pull through at a crack system and belay.
P6 (5.7 120ft) A better pitch heads up and right past some fixed gear and ends at the same location. (Slabs Direct)
P7 (5.2R 80ft) Head up and left and belay on a ledge.
P8 (5.2R 120ft) Continue up on a dike passing an overlap, and belay on a ledge.
P9 (5.2R 150ft) More runout fiction past one bolt to the top.

Descent: Head to your right, and find a wandering trail back to the base. It is probably possible to rap the route with two ropes, if it starts to rain.


Protection 

Light SR, including some small tricams



Add Photo Photos of Standard Route
Overview of Standard Route done with the 'Quartz Pocket' and 'Direct Finish' variations

BETA PHOTO: Overview of Standard Route done with the 'Quartz P...

Dave Trumper leading up from the Quartz Pocket on pitch 3... bring tricams for this pitch if you like protection...

Dave Trumper leading up from the Quartz Pocket on ...

dave at the top of the arch (looking up from the thread belay) just before getting  to lunch ledge...

dave at the top of the arch (looking up from the t...

Dave Trumper starting the crux traverse photo taken from Lunch Ledge...<br /><br />note: he has just clipped bolt 1 and bolt 2 is just above the sloping ledge less than 10 feet to his right...

Dave Trumper starting the crux traverse photo take...

We chose to belay just after the traverse from gear... Here Dave is leading up from our belay to the right facing corner that could be considered a second crux (one of the best sections of the climb though)...

We chose to belay just after the traverse from gea...

Mike leading in some spooky fog that cleared about halfway up the wall.  This was my first multipitch and the fog cleverly hid all the climbing I was about to do.

Mike leading in some spooky fog that cleared about...

Following the crux

Following the crux

One of the weird holes in which tricams really do work best.

One of the weird holes in which tricams really do ...


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By Guy Humphrey
From: Fort Collins CO
Jan 19, 2007

Here is another description of the climb:

http://www.chauvinguides.com/stdguide.pdf