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Ethereal Crack 

5.10d

   

FA: Ed Webster and Bryan Becker, June 22, 1975
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 50 feet
Views: 1,105 page views

Submitted By: pointy on Jan 19, 2007


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Greg Jackson cruxing on 'Ethereal Crack'. 'Sevent...


Description 

Make a few unprotected moves to a ledge and move left across it to reach the crack. Climb past a couple of pods in the crack to where it gets ridiculously small. "Jam" and friction for about 25 feet to the top of the tiny crack and either escape right or finish left at 5.11a.

This climb is easily toproped after leading The Beelzebub Corner.


Location 

Just beyond The Echo Roof itself lies a giant leaning flake, The Ethereal Crack Buttress. This route climbs the left of two cracks on the buttress.


Protection 

Gear to 1", small nuts are very useful.



Comments on Ethereal Crack Add Comment
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By Tuxebo
From: Middletown, RI
Jul 9, 2008

This is a really fun although super thin crack that can't be jammed unless your fingers are shoelace thickness. It is more of a gear protected face climb than a crack climb but really fun nonetheless.

By David Aguasca
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 14, 2008

I'd call it a pseudo-crack, hee hee

By TradByron
From: Uxbridge, MA
Aug 10, 2009

There are some finger jams or tips-jams with long reaches between them. You'll be worked if you don't have the reach and if your slab footwork isn't in order. Also bring your brass nuts. Don't let that frighten you, though--it's a STELLAR pitch!
PS-- If you're hesitating at all, do Seventh Seal first to get the feel for the rock--also a terrific route!