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Inferno 

5.8

   

FA: B. Anderson and W. Christian Aug 1972
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 380 feet
Views: 990 page views

Submitted By: lee hansche on Jun 2, 2007


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Me bro Evan on Inferno's classic hand crack


Description 

Though it is a classic route on its own, the upper pitches are more perfect than the first, and I recommend Hotter Than Hell (5.9) to the ledge and finishing on the last 2 pitches of Inferno, this is THE classic link up on this part of the cliff....
The true beginning is fun but a little wandering, not following a distinct feature.... We will start from there though....

Pitch 0: Scramble on to the ledge below Atlantis.... Scramble right then back left till you are comfortable on the ledge....

Pitch 1: (5.7) Climb up a groove, then on to a flake, and work your way left passing a pin and joining the big corner on the left for a few feet.... Follow the crack to belay near a small tree...130 FT....

Pitch 2: (5.4) Scramble left to gain a big tree ledge and walk along the ledge till you are under a beautiful crack system.... Belay from here....

Pitch 3: (5.8) Follow a flake up past small tree until you can move left to a perfect crack.... Jam this awesome crack to a belay ledge with a small tree.... This crack is one of the best at the grade in the White Mountains...100 ft....

Pitch 4: (5.8) Traverse left 10 feet to a steep flake system heading up and right, follow this to a few more exciting moves to the top of the cliff.... Sit up there and take in the view....

Pitches 3 and 4 can be combined as one long pitch but care must be taken to avoid rope drag.... Most people just do them separately but I like the link up....

Rap with 2 ropes to the tree ledge, then another two rope rap to the ground.


Location 

Starts under the left-facing, corner system of Atlantis (5.10b)...Wandering up a less than vertical face to the ledge before walking left for the upper pitches....


Protection 

Standard rack.



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By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 14, 2008

If not the best trad 5.8 in the state then I don't know what is.