Pitch 1: climb up to a bolt under a small roof, mantle the lip (pin) and traverse right pulling another small roof at a bolt, traverse right at the base of the head wall and clip a bolt (crux) follow decently spaced bolts to a bolt and two pin anchor next to a flake 5.10.
Pitch 2. traverse left 25 feet and place trad pro at the base of the arete (large nut or hex useful). Climb the beautiful arete on bolts (exposed, 5.9+) to a two bolt anchor below a wide dihedral.
Pitch 3: climb the beautiful dihedral using crack and face holds to a half driven in lost arrow, continue up the corner to an awkward layback move (crux). Traverse left 20 feet to the two bolt anchor on Atlantis.
Rappel straight down in two raps with 60 meter ropes.
Location
The south buttress of Whitehorse can be accessed by the main climbers trail spanning the length of Whitehorse. Make sure to park in the climbers lot located on the right when driving towards the hotel. Please do not cross the golf course or disturb golfers as the White Mountain Hotel and the residents of the golf course have been helpful in providing access to the cliff.
Protection
The majority of this route relies on fixed protection; however, in true New Hampshire style, most of the bolts and pins were drilled/placed on lead. A standard rack from #0.4 to #3 and a set of nuts should suffice. Because of the wandering nature of the first and second pitch, using double ropes is a good idea.
It's not mentioned but the description above begins partway up the cliff, after a 4th-class scramble up and right to reach fixed anchors at the horizontal break below the steeper part of the wall.
There's a worthwhile first pitch that was traditionally part of the route, but which is bypassed by doing this scramble. Its difficulty and rock quality are consistent with the climbing above, so for full value, you might want to climb all four pitches.
From the ground, scramble up and right about 40' to a ledge with tree-cluster below a steep, clean slab. A bolt can be seen 10' up this slab, marking the start of the climb. Reach the bolt, surmount a big overlap, and continue with face climbing and friction past several fixed pins directly up to the belay below the crux pitch of Lost Souls. 100' 5.9 PG.
For the original first pitch of Lost Souls, start at the same gearing-up spot used for Atlantis, Inferno, Last Unicorn, etc. Instead of scrambling up the long 3rd class section that accesses those routes, look for a ledge with several trees about 30 feet up and right from the start of scrambling. The first bolt of the Lost Souls can be seen from the ground, on a slab about ten feet above the tree ledge. Scramble up to the tree ledge and set the first belay.
Slab climbing (tricky when wet) leads up to the obvious bolt. Zig right and then left to surmount the headwall, and continue up a slab past several fixed pitons, eventually reaching a bolt belay below the big headwall pitch of Lost Souls. About 100 feet, 5.9 PG.
I have not done this route but Bill told me just before he died that this was his best line. Quite a statement from someone who did so many good F/A's.
I just climbed this route yesterday... the first pitch adds to the climb and i saw no reason to avoid it... pitch 3, the arete with 2 bolts is a little spooky and fun... all in all a great climb...
Atlantis Area
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