Whitehorse Ledge

the Whitehorse slabs as viewed from cathedral ledg...

Description 

Whitehorse Ledge is a huge chunk of granite that is host to a wide variety of climbing styles from face climbs to cracks to of coarse slabs. The cliff is known for its stellar slab climbing. Often bold and always what you think of when you think slab. Routes like Standard Route (5.5), Interloper (5.10c), and Sliding Board (5.7) set the standard in New England for slab climbing.
As you follow the cliff south, it gets progressively steeper and steeper until you get to the south buttress a collection of cracks and face climbs that deserves much more attention. Here the gems are climbs like the classic link up Hotter Than Hell (5.9) to Inferno (5.8), Atlantis (5.10b), and a host of killer exposed mostly bolted (but not sport bolted)face climbs.
The variety at Whitehorse makes it hard to include everything. For example, the routes are of all varieties from short crack climbs to 1000+ft smooth slabs. Some routes eat up gear while others run out entire pitches all the way to the anchor.

Best thing to do is find a climb that suits you and get after it. Climbing on this cliff, rich with history, variety and personality will help you learn the skills you need to climb anywhere you please.

The south buttress is a prime area to climb in the colder months due to its southern exposure.

Getting There 

From EMS/IME in North Conway hook up with river rd. after less than a mile turn left on to west side road. Follow for a mile or so (you will pass the lobster trap restaurant). Turn right in to the white mountain hotel and resort, take your first right (toward the hotel) park in the lot near the maintenance shed. DO NOT PARK IN THE HOTEL LOT, that's for the sophisticated types. Walk up the road while hotel guests give you funny looks and find the trail in the corner of the main parking lot.
The slabs will be in front of you another trail takes you south through the wood to access the south buttress

The Classics

Featured Route For Whitehorse Ledge

Sliding Board 5.7 R  NH : Whitehorse Ledge : The Slabs

A truly classic slab climb, loved, respected and feared...A great place to hone your slab climbing skills...Sees many ascents and some epics on a nice weekend so try to avoid the crowds and make sure you are ready for the adventure....Start from the launch pad.Pitch one (5.2): Moves up toward the arch of standard route breaking left to a two ringbolt anchor, even with the bottom of the arch....Pitch two (5.7): Move right and up past two bolts alo...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Whitehorse Ledge Slideshow

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looking up at me from lunch ledge on standard rout...	this wasn't a good day for climbing as you can see...	BETA PHOTO: an overview of Whitehorse...
Mystery Climber from the 1970's about to attempt t...	BETA PHOTO: Climbing the slabs of Whitehorse. Forgot to bring ...	A shot of Whitehorse from the road
Beginning of fall from up on Sliding Board