A new addition last year, The Big Rip is an adventurous journey up one of the more neglected sections of Sundown's main wall. This wall is home to Banana Head (and its extension, Big Banana, a notorious route that once sported a bolt-on gym hold). These routes climb up the left and steepest part of the wall, as The Big Rip skirts the major steepness by following a discontinuous right-angling crack system.
Expect funky, physical climbing for the entire length of the wall. While many of Sundown's routes suffer from flat-edge sameness, The Big Rip is a welcome change by offering tenuous laybacks, funky jugs, and surprisingly hard mantles.
Attention: While the route is mostly bolted, a #1 Camalot is necessary between the first and second bolts. About halfway up, .4 and .5 Camalots take the sting out of a runout.
Location
Right of Banana Head.
Protection
Bolts. Mid sized cams (.4 to 1 Camalot) are necessary.
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