Vultures is the striking thin finger crack that splits a blank wall to the left of the obvious roofs. If you aren't into sport climbing or you want a warm up before the harder stuff, Vultures is probably the route you came here to do.
It doesn't look that bad, really, as the wall is a bit undervertical and there seems to be many options for your feet. The crack is splitter, and it looks like it offers some good fingerlocks. You might think to yourself that Vultures could be a quick tick, that it's massive reputation as one of the harder 5.10s in New Hampshire is a bit overblown.
I thought these things, that is, until I found myself ten feet up, with one gray TCU in, blindly groping at the crack that most decidedly would not accept my fingers. And those footholds that looked so great were just bad small enough, or polished enough, or something, that they did not inspire confidence at all. In a word, I underestimated the crack.
This is what I think Vultures really is: a standing testament to the climbing skill of its first ascentionists and a testpiece that is sure to test climbers from any era.
Yeah, so climb the thin crack to bolt anchors. It doesn't look too bad, does it?
Protection
Thin. TCUs and stoppers. I didn't use anything bigger than a yellow TCU.
i couldnt agree more with this description... however when i went for my onsight my belayer told me about the groundfall potential and how desperate it felt when you got in to it...so it went well... a must do for anyone who wishes to climb hard thin cracks...
Fantastic single pitch line- aesthetic and climbs great. I found that it protected quite well off the deck with small nuts and larger BD micros; then up to a purple or green C4.
tick it off all you ladies with small fingers. it's well prtected and eases off.
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Mar 8, 2008
There is an extension to this route called "Carrion" (FA--Nick Yardley) and clocks in at about 11c/d. It protects well with a couple a pins, a nut placement, and a couple of small cams. It begins at the anchor of Vultures, steps up then climbs out to the right to another set of anchors about 40 feet away.
I'm a lady with small fingers and an affection for finger cracks. I don't know if I missed something, but I barely jammed the crack at all until after the crux--which for me, was all face moves. I agree that Vultures is a well protected route, but the pro was a lot harder to place than I had expected. I wouldn't call it an easy tick, regardless of finger size. Definitely a great route, but not a good one to underestimate with the crux so near the ground.
A classic NH finger crack- your fingers don't fit and the route becomes largely face climbing and footwork. Also try the Tr just to the right, nice moves.
Sundown Ledge
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