Climbing up the middle of three cracks on the main face, Standard Route is a classic. Though it can be done in one push, most prefer to break it up into 2 pitches. The first belay is usually about 2/3 of the way up the face on a small ledge. This allows the belayer to always be within sight of their leader.
One can choose to either follow the crack system to the summit, or use the massive face holds. Either way, engaging climbing awaits all the way to the summit- just play it to your strengths.
Location
Standard Route starts on the far left of Square Ledge by a prominent corner leading up the the middle of 3 fingercracks. Anchor to one of the two Birches.
Protection
Standard Route will pretty much take anything you have on your rack. It protects quite well using anything from wired nuts, to aliens, all the way up to the blue camalot. Needless to say, your standard Catherdral rack will work famously.
Square Ledge is a fun crag to visit, especially for beginning leaders. This route was my first real trad lead. It is always much cooler in Pinkham Notch than down in the N. Conway area so it is a nice refuge on those sticky summer days. Beware of large crowds of summer campers and climbing school students!
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