Jay Knower sticks crux number two (out of five) on...
Description
Cold War is the line of strength up the steep wall on the right side of Waimea. Combining the cruxes of Barracuda (13d), Suburban (13a), and Urban Surfer (13d), Cold War has become well-known for the pump it generates.
Start just right of Suburban and climb through a roof to the "Slam Dunk Move," a big slap around a bulge to a hidden jug. Next head into the Barracuda Corner, a feature which is amazing in its stark blankness. A move to a crimp in the middle of the corner is the technical crux of the route.
At the top of the corner, swing left into the Suburban kneebar, rest, and then fire the Suburban crux. Recover as best you can in the Urban kneebar. Finally, climb the long upper part of Urban Surfer to the chains. The moves through this section become progressively easier as you climb, but the pump makes the final V0 moves to the jug feel quite a bit harder, perhaps harder than anything you've ever climbed.
After about eighty moves, four cruxes, four kneebars, and 12 bolts of climbing, clip the chains and lower off. Then shirk all belay duty and take a nap in the sun.
Waimea
RSS Feed
