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Luau 

5.12a

   

FA: Chris Smith, 1994
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 403 page views

Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 18, 2007


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Sam Todzia super excted to be in the sweet stem.


Description 

Cool moves and Technical moves on a face make this climb very interesting. Finding and taking rests will make his climb easier...
Some of the upper moves can be spicy on a fall day when the sun comes out and your hands start getting mighty sweaty on the dark-colored hot final flake moves.

The crux of this route will hit you when you try to get off the ledge mid-way up, Hint: it involves an exciting deadpoint to a three finger pocket/crimp. It might seem like the lower bolt on the ledge is kinda silly but keep it clipped it really keeps the rope out of your way for the crux.

Unlike most of this cliff, this route rarely has draws in place.
Too bad that it is wet most of the year.
Very worthwhile when dry.

Warm-up your hips and calves for this one!


Location 

Black streak in middle of Waimea. Very open right facing corner. Just left of Silver Surfer(5.12a) and Flying Hawaiian(5.11b)


Protection 

7 Bolts to anchors.



Add Photo Photos of Luau
Jay Knower "the administrator" making the crux move on this "weird climb".

Jay Knower "the administrator" making the crux mov...

Ladd Raine trying to chalk and rest before the crux deadpoint on this great line.

Ladd Raine trying to chalk and rest before the cru...

Ladd Raine all setup for the crux move.

Ladd Raine all setup for the crux move.


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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 9, 2007

I just climbed Luau for the first time yesterday and loved it... it could be really hard if you dont use the right beta but once i figured it out it felt almost easy... my kind of route...

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 27, 2007

keep at it ladd... i seem to remember some interesting foot beta i used for the last move... its still a throw but it sets you up well... good luck...