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Dodge the Lemons 

5.13d

   

FA: Dave Graham
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.13d [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 484 page views

Submitted By: Jay Knower on Nov 29, 2006


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Nick sticks the crux of Dodge the Lemons


Description 

This route was called a "project" in the most recent guidebook, but has since been sent. Locate the very overhanging wall on the right side of Waimea. Dodge climbs the left line (the right line being Riviera, 13d), and starts right where the trail meets the cliff. Climb straight up the wall to the first bolt and then take a hard left past two more bolts until it is possible to head straight up the easier corner.

Dodge starts with difficulty. Though Graham reportedly campused the first few moves and called the route 14a, a sneaky knee bar makes it slightly more doable at 13d. The angle here is pretty much horizontal and the holds all seem like bad pinches. The crux of the route is climbing up to the first bolt (which you should have stick clipped). A kneebar offers a good rest before embarking on the leftward traverse.

Begin climbing left on progressively worsening holds across a hanging feature. The slappy, thrutchy nature of the climbing through this section has been called "violent." A hard move brings you to the end of the traverse. From here, climb the relatively easy corner of Maui Wowie to the top. Though a line of bolts continues up the steep arete, this line is very contrived, as a high foot is all that's required to rock up into the MW corner.

Dodge is a relatively popular climb and feels a lot like an extended boulder problem. Incidentaly, it climbs much, much better than it looks.


Protection 

Bolts, maybe a right knee pad



Add Photo Photos of Dodge the Lemons
The puff brigade getting excited for another go on Dodge The Lemons.

The puff brigade getting excited for another go on...

Jay Knower making the move to the tooth.

Jay Knower making the move to the tooth.

Jay Knower taking lessons from nature: How to hang upside-down from a piece of cold rock.

Jay Knower taking lessons from nature: How to hang...

The Jays climbing away on the coldest day thus far Winter 07-08

The Jays climbing away on the coldest day thus far...


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By jason conway
Dec 9, 2006

climbing this route feels like wrestling TWO fat kids!!