The pumpy clip in the middle of the long crux sect...
Description
The right side of Waimea holds a wall so unbroken in steepness that it is unrivalled in the Northeast. Urban Surfer climbs up the center of this wall.
Start as for Suburban and climb past the kneebar, past the V5 crux, and into the big resting kneebar that signifies the end of Suburban. From here, the route angles left across a hanging corner. The first move involves an awkward reach out left to a tiny crimp. The pumpy moves continue across the diagonaling feature until a huge jug and a big kneebar offer a good rest. Climbing from kneebar to kneebar has been called a V8 boulder problem, though this stretch is about twenty feet long.
From the jug, easier moves head up and slightly right until right below the anchors. A big pull gains the top of the cliff. The topout, though relatively easy, is spectacular.
Originally bolted by John Mallery, Urban was a popular project back then, and continues as such today. In fact, many Rumney climbers never stray from this section of rock. It's understandable, really, as Urban and variations thereof, test a climber's fitness, power, mental fortitude, and kneebarring prowess.
Protection
9 bolts which are always fixed with draws. A right kneepad is crucial.
Waimea
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