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Whip Tide 

Whip Tide 

5.12b/c

   
1 person found this page useful

FA: Squibb, Mallery, Andrew, 1989
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12b/c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 75 feet
Views: 1,819 page views

Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 4, 2006


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Past the bulge crux, Kayte Decker contemplates the...


Description 

Whip Tide climbs up the central inside corner of the cliff. However, this corner is guarded by a bouldery overhang at the bottom and a giant roof at the top. The pump crux, topping out, has given many a climber trouble, but grabbing the chains is a definite faux pas.

Climb up the ladder to the ledge. Whip Tide is the farthest left route starting off the ledge. Stems and the sneaky use of an undercling allow establishment in the corner. From here, relatively moderate, but spicy stemming leads to the roof. Fear not, as the roof holds are some of the biggest in Rumney. Traverse right across the roof and top out.

Originally graded 5.12c, the crux of the route involved a very powerful cross through from a gaston in order to enter the corner. The newer undercling beta may have taken the sting out of the grade.


Protection 

13 bolts



Photos of Whip Tide Slideshow Add Photo
Kayte approaching the roof. The chains can be seen on the right.

Kayte approaching the roof. The chains can be seen...

Jay Conway just past the crux on Whip Tide, as the cliff emits its afternoon glow.

Jay Conway just past the crux on Whip Tide, as the...

Timmy D enjoying an incredible new england summer day.

Timmy D enjoying an incredible new england summer ...


Comments on Whip Tide Add Comment
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By George Squibb
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2006

It was a long time ago, but I think we originally graded it .12b

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 29, 2006

The most recent guidebook has it at 12c, but I would agree with 12b. Technosurfing is at least as hard as Whip Tide, if not harder, and Techno's 12b.

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 14, 2007
rating: 5.12b/c

The victory whip from the top is not to be missed.... I found the whipper to be at least as fun as the climb itself....

To take the whip:
1. don't clip the chains...
2. have your belayer pay out a bit of extra slack...
3. walk the plank...

You will hit the wall but not too hard at all...have fun....

By Mike Thompson
From: amherst NH
Feb 7, 2008

new project for mike?....i think so!.... take the whiper eh!

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 8, 2008
rating: 5.12b/c

good proj for you mike... work out the boulder problem start then crush it...

By Mike Thompson
From: amherst NH
Feb 17, 2008

oh it will be crushed