Waimea dry and ice free on a lucky winter day. Ph...
Description
A stunning line up a prominent black streak, Waimea is an absolute classic. Sustained, creative moves on all types of holds get harder and pumpier as you near the top, and culminate with a technical crux on water carved grooves. Take your pick between balancy moves on tiny crimps and side pulls, or longer reaches between better holds.
The home of giant ice pillars in the winter, Waimea is sometimes wet into mid summer. Luckily, the route has such a fan base that any chap in the parking lot can tell you whether or not the crux is dry.
Location
Walk across talus past the central Waimea wall and around the corner. Waimea the route is right of the stuning black arete of Livin' Astro. The start of Waimea is recognizable by big incut wafer flakes.
i heard rumor that this route's holds are getting bigger from erosion.... same rumor suggested that it might be up for a downgrade maybe even to a 10b? what do people have to say about this?
By James Otey From: Canterbury, NH Aug 12, 2009 rating: 5.10d
Oh rumors... It would take hundreds of years for water to make an appreciable, even noticeable difference. A hold broke last year, but it feels about the same as it always has.
Mike: Like many routes, beta can make it feel a grade or two easier. Jakob's got this route down to the T. He's also a MUCH better, stronger climber than before... even if he won't let himself think that. :)
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Aug 18, 2009 rating: 5.10d
I wouldn't say the route has gotten easier at all. The route up to the crux may only feel 10b, but the couple crux moves, in my opinion, still feel 10d. And regarding the size of the holds--If anything, they're only becoming more polished from sticky rubber and roadrunner feet, and not bigger from erosion.
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