Technosurfing  5.12b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Scott Stevenson, 1988 Submitted By:  Jay Knower on Oct 2, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Kayte Knower making the clip at the start of the c...

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Description 

Technosurfing is the most climbed 5.12 at Rumney. On a busy weekend, it may receive twenty ascents. It's a popular project and a popular warm up, yet it remains blissfully unpolished because schist is pretty darn abrasive.

If you project this, the fierceness lessens as you figure out the beta. Though intimidating at first, many an ascentionist has risen to the challenge.

Techno is a climb in three parts, each separated by a no hands rest: First, an awkward and surprisingly hard inside corner gives way to jugs. Then rest. Next, the steep bulge is the technical crux. The moves are weird and counterintuitive. Ask a local for beta. Then rest. Finally, steep climbing on big holds trends left to the anchors.

Location 

The left side of Central Wiamea. Start left of the in-situ ladder. The route angles left.

Protection 

9 Bolts

Photos of Technosurfing Slideshow

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Kayte Knower heading left to the anchors. The crux...	Getting techno while surfing! Recognize this hold ...	Matt Bristol climbing out of the first crux on Tec...
Jay Knower setting up for the final pump crux of t...	Ladd getting through the mini corner at the very b...	Dan, the new brunswickin getting into the crux on ...
Chris on the first half of techno.	Chris on the second, pumpy section of techno.	Adam on Technosurfing.
Lily heel hooking in to the crux...	lily, in the opening corner on techno...	lily, big reach to the ledge...