Kayte Knower making the clip at the start of the c...
Technosurfing is the most climbed 5.12 at Rumney. On a busy weekend, it may receive twenty ascents. It's a popular project and a popular warm up, yet it remains blissfully unpolished because schist is pretty darn abrasive.
If you project this, the fierceness lessens as you figure out the beta. Though intimidating at first, many an ascentionist has risen to the challenge.
Techno is a climb in three parts, each separated by a no hands rest: First, an awkward and surprisingly hard inside corner gives way to jugs. Then rest. Next, the steep bulge is the technical crux. The moves are weird and counterintuitive. Ask a local for beta. Then rest. Finally, steep climbing on big holds trends left to the anchors.
The left side of Central Wiamea. Start left of the in-situ ladder. The route angles left.
Anyone have beta for the crux bulge? I can't seem to figure it out/run into someone doing it...
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Sep 12, 2012
Beta spoiler - Is there a particular spot giving you trouble? Others can probably fine tune the beta, but here is what I remember. After clipping the first bolt in the bulge, you are probably going to reach up to a good smallish hold with your right and dyno if you are short, or backstep and reach to the big flat hold with your left. I immediately get a right toe cam in the vertical crack to stabilize and clip. Match and throw your right heal up by your hands. Crank your right into a high cross-over and pop your left up to a pocket. You can then rock over your foot and pop your right fingers into a slot, camming your fingers a little with your thumb down I think. I can't remember the exact next beta, but you need to relax as much as you can and use your balance as you move up a move or two and then step left onto a shelf. I think I remember it being more grunty if you go left early and mantle, less strenuous but a little scary feeling if you go up another move or two first and step over onto the sloping shelf.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Sep 13, 2012 rating: 5.12b7b26VIII+E5 6b
more spoiler- mark's over all spray is good but i'd add a little detail... from the big flat ledge hold where you have hands and heel... up and left there is a down pulling crimp (left hand) and a sidepull (right hand) both are good but small-ish... then up and left to the good pocket (levering a little with a heel-toe is helpful for me on the move to the pocket, heel on ledge and toe against the wall)... from the pocket go straight up to an edge then balance right to the fingerlock hold... as mark said, climbing up the crimp face above then stepping left to the rest ledge is easier than the mantel move (though it is tempting when you are looking at it)...
spoiler Previously I've matched at the big ledge, clipped, then went up and right to a very chalked up good crimp and tried to stand up on the big ledge. It wasn't working... I'll try this beta. Thanks Mark and Lee.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Dec 8, 2012 rating: 5.12b7b26VIII+E5 6b