Waimea

Jay Conway in mid-flight off Livin' Astro. Photo ...

Description 

Waimea is the the flagship crag at Rumney and home of some of the hardest routes in the country. The schist looks like a crashing wave. Routes climb up the imposing overhanging features. My friend Lee constantly worried that Waimea would tip over because of its undercut nature. I think a bigger worry is the humbling that tends to happen to the climber on these powerful and technical routes.

Waimea faces south and slightly west. The crag gets sun in the afternoon. Many of the routes, because of their steep angle, stay dry in the rain.

Getting There 

The approach is long by sport climbing standards. Park in the lot. DO NOT PARK ALONG THE ROAD. Walk along the road for about a half mile until a well-defined trail heads uphill. Follow this trail up the hill, passing some bouldering and a steep, short cliff (this is Lower Darth Vader). At this point, the trail heads steeply up rock stairs and talus to the base of Waimea. Expect 30 minutes of walking.

Featured Route For Waimea

Restless Native 5.12b/c  New Hampshire : Rumney : Waimea

Pumpy moves out a roof lead to a good, if uncomfortable and undignified, rest. Stand up and enter the steep dihedral (technical crux). "Top out" of this section for another really good rest if you can get it just right. Stand up again (a little awkward) and strive for the top of the "2x4". Clip (phew!) and make your way into the narrow chimney for a series of strenuous, sideways kneebars (psychological crux). Get another rest at the top of t...[more]

Add Photo Photos of Waimea

February climbing at Waimea.	Jay Conway sticks the crux on Flying Fish, Waimea.	Rose and Jay on a cold April 9th....
Jay Knower on the coolest rest I've seen in a whil...	A tough clip at Waimea.	Zeb Engberg on the Jaws project...
Zeb on Great White 5.12d...	Another one of Zeb on Great White this one shows s...	BETA PHOTO: the lines of luau and silver surfer, twin 5.12a's....
Mike starting up Livin astro...	another shot of Mike on Livin Astro...	the awesome bat hang on Man Overboard...
One more of Mike on Astro...	Waimea as seen from the Butt-Bongo ledge.	A winter beta/belay session at Waimea. Katye and L...
The ladder at Waimea, a nice way to gain the left ...	I've spent a lot of time at rumney this winter and...