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Wimpy -Gilman Ridge, The 

Shame on a Chippa 

5.13c

   

FA: Justin Hayes/Tim Kemple
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.13c [details]
Length: 50 feet
Views: 212 page views

Submitted By: Jeremiah Johnson on Mar 5, 2008


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Description 

A harder version of Venus. Getting established over the small roof at the beginning of the route is probably the crux, but it continues in a very sustained manner, with another crux in the middle and a redpoint crux at the top. The holds are exceedingly sharp, particularly at the first crux, and the clips are strenuous the whole way, though also particularly at the beginning - a much harder route to lead than to toprope.


Location 

The route to the right of Venus.


Protection 

Bolts (7?)



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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 25, 2009

This is too hard for me but I have always wondered, does the name mean this route was chipped at some point?

By M Sprague
Jul 25, 2009

I think Tim thought it was, but I am not sure it really was. Sometimes people think things are chipped when they are not and visa versa. When cleaning for a new route it is also sometimes a grey area with chossy rock. I have only been on the route one time, so I'm not sure what specific hold/s he found questionable. It is kind of a sharp tweakfest if I remember right

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 26, 2009

Thanks Mark it was just something I have always wondered about