Venus on a Halfshell 

FA:  Dave Jacobson and Scott Stevenson, 1990 Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.12c [details] Length:  1 pitch Views: 791 page views Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 23, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Adam Holmes eyes the next crimp.

Description 

Endurance crimping. Forty feet of climbing that feels like 80. No rests and no stopper moves. A looming redpoint crux. This is Venus on a Halfshell.

Stick clip the first bolt and crank a surprisingly hard move to get established on the wall. Continue through a roof, past a big hold that looks like it offers a decent rest. It doesn't. The crimps continue. A hard clip. Funny pockets that are really just crimps anyway. A big crimp that allows a shake. And the last hard move: a spock hold that feels oh so slipery when the strength is ebbing. A jug to clip the anchors. Lower down. Shake head. That was a great route, wasn't it?

Protection 

5 bolts.

Photos of Venus on a Halfshell Slideshow

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No easy moves, no super hard moves just good crimp...	the lower part of Venus... what a great route...	Aryesh cruising the first section of venus.
Such a beautiful route.