Venus Wall and the waterfall after a rainy evening...
Description
Though technically part of Main Cliff, Venus Wall is far enough removed from Main Cliff proper that it feels like its own area.
The wall is steadily overhanging, and by some strange quirk of geology, almost every hold on the wall is a crimp. If you get frustrated with your feet skating on Main Cliff's smooth smears, or if you need a break from Waimea's weirdly technical sequences, then head to the Venus Wall for some good old-fashioned crimp tugging.
The climbing on the Venus Wall has been compared to the climbing at the Red River Gorge, both being pumpy and sustained. The catch? Venus Wall is about 40 feet tall. So, if you like enduro crimping, but don't have crazy endurance, then Venus Wall is your place.
Plus, a seasonal waterfall (The grade 4 ice climb Selsun Blue) adds to the ambiance of the area.
Getting There
Venus Wall is eaily reached by following directions to the Main Cliff and traversing the cliff line left.
Alternately, walk down the road to the point where the Baker River is the closest to the roadside. Head uphill on a steep, direct trail. Upon reaching the cliff, turn left. After periods of rain (which is just about all the time in New Hampshire), look for the waterfall. Venus Wall is to the left.
Endurance crimping. Forty feet of climbing that feels like 80. No rests and no stopper moves. A looming redpoint crux. This is Venus on a Halfshell.Stick clip the first bolt and crank a surprisingly hard move to get established on the wall. Continue through a roof, past a big hold that looks like it offers a decent rest. It doesn't. The crimps continue. A hard clip. Funny pockets that are really just crimps anyway. A big crimp that allows a shake...[more]
Though I agree that the left (steep, hard) side of the cliff is the best part, I must note that on the right side of the waterfall, you will find a gully that is home to some great super moderates.... one of the best things about Rumney is that people take the time to clean and bolt true beginner climbs for folks to learn the basics and that gully is the place to be for people just starting out and maybe a little nervous about leading....
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Nov 27, 2007
The top of this cliff can be easily accessed via a gully left of Neptune/Venus
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