Alex working on the hard crux of Squall.... If he ...
Description
This climb is at least a letter grade harder for the short climber. Start out on the ledge right of three easy pieces and get you hands into a nice sharp jug. Make a move and gain some move sharp moves(will be hard for short climbers to make the reach) continue up then move up and left out bigger holds to anchors. Excellent footwork is required for this climb to feel do-able for the shorter climber. I would not suggest this climb for the 5.10 climber with soft gym hands.
Location
Route just right of 3 Easy pieces, starts on ledge
the top of the route traverses left quite a bit between the last bolt and the anchors, which unfortunately are two sets of chains. It sucks to take a whipper at the chains (or at least it looked like it sucked) but there is a bomber jug just left of the chains to help keep you cool when clipping in.
this is an awesome climb. I agree that the start is really difficult for shorter climbers (my friend couldn't follow it, because she couldn't reach the first hold) and yes it does seem like a long way to the chains from the last bolt. I missed the last bolt because it was on the left side of a point that you come around and I was just focused on getting to the chains...but luckily the second to last bolt was on the other side of that point...phew
Fun, strong moves up and past the 2nd bolt. The guidebook mentions to head towards the chains at the top of Three Easy Pieces, but there is an additional tree anchor that is more centered with the start of the route. There are multiple 4th bolts that could be used, but it doesn't make sense to clip them both -- they are nearly parallel to each other and appear to be specific for the anchor you decide to use. If you avoid the tree anchor, cleaning can be slightly difficult.
Grrr... How many times do the slings need to be cut off the tree? The second chain anchor was put there for a reason; so the tree would not be used. It is a small pine tree and it's use as an anchor is not going to extend it's life any. Besides, using a 4 inch pine tree at the edge of a cliff as your sole anchor is not the smartest move. With a half way decent belay, a fall near the end shouldn't be a problem, and you are on big jugs.
Upper Darth Vadar
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