The name for this route comes from the first ascentionist's use of a solo bely device (or so I heard.) The route starts just to the right of Trigger happy, up the steep corner to a blocky, shallow roof. Traverse to the right on good holds and then climb straight up the much bleaker looking face. There are some good crimps and good feet which are hard to make out from the ground (but not that good.) The crux comes just below the anchors, which for me included burling straight through some small crimps, but it's not too bad if you are not too pumped. There's probably a more efficient approach here so check out the route and let me know.
Location
On the right side of Tripple corners (3 minutes left of Wiamea's left end) between trigger happy ( the left most bolt line in this section) and Perfectly Blunt.)
there is a non-burly way to do the top but most folks just stand there for a long time trying to figure it out then opt for the burl... some make it and some take the whipper...
I wish I could have figured out the non-burly way. I was one of the people that sat there for a while trying to figure it out and then pulled a crazy toe hook and hand foot match of some sort and felt relieved not to take the whipper... this climb didn't feel like any other of the rumney climbs I have done. It was worth doing, but I can't say I'll ever do it again on lead.
i think i did it the non-burly way... i think i did what btodd did and got a hand foot match but i didn't get a toe hook. I believe if you just take your time and do a bunch of balancy stand up moves the top is not that bad.
the first time i did this i did it the "non-burly" way and remember a left hand undercling (way left), smear the right foot, then hand foot match in the undercling pocket (i could see a toe hook working here too), it was a really memorable move. then i got on it again this year and couldnt figure out how i did it the first time so i went with the burl.
I just reclimbed this one today so here is my two cents on the crux beta... for the frist time on this move i felt super solid and what i did was this:::
When i had my hands on the last good ledge/crack before the chains i got my right hand in a good spot and put my left upside down in a spot that would become a good undercling when i stood up... i got a high right foot on an edge and started standing up then got my left foot up to the ledge which made the undercling super solid at which point i got some good holds, stood up, and i was all "i think ill clip the chains now"...
Sorry if thats too much spray for you... take it or leave it, it worked well...
Triple Corners
RSS Feed
