BETA PHOTO: Muel Todzia pulling the crux moves on the right si...
Description
Classic at the grade. Stick clip first bolt. Start on very textured large hold and get high feet, extend up and left to gain another rail-ish type hold that is interesting, get high feet and either go up and left to catch the flake in an undercling or go out right to catch the arete and couple of heucos and some more interesting moves to eventually gain the flake 4 feet above the bottom undercling. Continue up the flake (it is solid to pull on, just not for gear)to gain the jugs to clip the anchors.
Harder for shorter climbers. A great climb for the 5.11- climber to work out/tick. A great climb to burn out on for the 5.11-5.12 climber.
Location
At the lowest point of the triple corners V.
Protection
Watch out for hitting the boulder to your left if you botch the 2nd clip.
Photos of Man With a Hueco in His Tights Slideshow
This route is classic, as Ladd said there are options at the bottom, and I choose to leave my hands out of the two obvious Heuco's, however they make great foot holds. At the top it is possible and fun to knee bar before clipping the anchors.
An awesome short route! Gets easier as you go, so don't stop cranking! The start is very powerful and bouldery, with a few options. The clips arent too hard if you find some good heel hooks and or knee bars.
By Duncan Lennon From: New Hampshire Aug 29, 2009 rating: 5.10d
The presence of the block makes this otherwise excellent route a bit contrived. The entire crux basically amounts to a sit start to the real route, since you can stem or step onto the block at any point. The whole thing is fun, but it's weird having to call a part of it 'off'.
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