This is a quality, full value 5.12b that is often considered one of the best routes at the grade at Rumney... Be prepared to work hard right up to the heart breaker crux before the chains...Enjoy...
Start just right of The Premium with your hands on a well chalked Ledge sort of thing... Throw a heel up and pull in to a lay back so you can stand on the small ledge... Work up the face above stemming then moving out right to a distant hold and a good slab rest... Continue up to the horn above and a really nice welcome rest sitting on the horn or standing on the ledge... Above is a nice steep face with a crux looming at the top... Climb a mix of crimps and good holds to gain the crux just below the lip that marks the top... From the last good holds on the face get your feet high out left and make a powerful move up and left to a small flake/sidepull and one final move to a jug and an awkward but not too hard mantel...
Nice job, they didn't hand you that one...
Location
the first route to the right of the corner (The Premium) on the right side of the cliff...
The Prudential
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