Ladd Raine starting the crack portion of the probl...
Description
Don't let its height deter you from this one, it is as enjoyable, safe and wonderful to climb as it looks. Start on the obvious holds in the crack, use the block for feet and motor through the low crux to the jug, and a few hand jams later you'll be wishing that it went on for 100+ more feet and you had a rope on.
Location
Obvious crack in front of you as soon as you cross the stone wall.
i would just like to add that in speaking from experience you dont want to blow the top moves of this problem... it hurts, but get on this and have fun...
I'm pretty sure Ward Smith's Rumney guidebook calls this a V0 if you use the boulder to the left, and a V2 if you don't, doing it as a sit start without using the boulder to the left is fun, also there is also a V9 variation where you climb out right at the undercling.
V0 is too soft V1 is more like it and the sit start is V5 the V9 route is called Hardman Dentist and starts with the crack and breaks right below the bulge...
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