BETA PHOTO: Photo of the route showing the anchors of Easily A...
Description
Located above the anchors of Easily Amused (5.7). From those anchors – at the big ledge/chimney with the tree – follow moderate terrain and good ledges up to the base of a steep headwall. Move through the thin, technical crimp moves (crux) to increasingly better holds/flakes that trend up and slightly left to a 2-bolt ring anchor. Best done as one push from the ground by clipping a draw to the anchor of Easily Amused for a complete long route to the top of the cliff. It may also be done as an independent second pitch after that route, or by traversing in from the second big ledge of Glory Jean’s (5.6), where that route traverses left.
Please do not top rope off the ring anchors, which decreases their lifespan and safety. Instead, place your own draws, and have the last climber in your party thread the rings and rappel (not lower).
This is awesome I had always looked up there and wondered if it was possible. Nice work.
By E thatcher From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH) Oct 27, 2009
Did this route today and found it to be a great addition to the cliff. Thanks for taking the time to clean and bolt it! The crux seemed thin and reachey to me, definitely on the more technical side, and very fun.
Thank you for cleaning and bolting this. The crux was a little crimpy but the sequence was fairly obvious and very enjoyable. I have a huge reach, but I found no problem finding the right holds. This is a great addition for this wall. :)
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