Raptor nesting closures are in effect for parts of Rumney MORE INFO >>>
Rumney - Peregrine Falcons have taken up residence on the Summit Cliff. The entire Summit Cliff (including “Flea Surgeon” and “Northwest Passage”), as well as the Asylum Cliff to climbers’ left and the Monolith to climbers’ right) are temporarily closed to climbing. All other crags, including the Main Cliff near Buffalo Road are OPEN.
Cathedral Ledge -Peregrine Falcons have taken up residence on the northern end of Cathedral Ledge. Routes from climbers' right of "Cathedral Roof" to climbers' left of "Diedre" (including "Repentence" and "Remission") are temporarily closed to climbing. All other areas on the cliff remain OPEN.
Your cooperation is essential if these birds are to nest successfully. Peregrines are protected by both Federal and State laws.
Description
More popular and more fun as an ice climb, i recommend waiting till it freezes to climb it... The climbing is actually pretty cool but there are a few BIG down sides... It is quite vegetated, wet, muddy, and on top of all this its pretty poorly protected oh and a few loose rocks... If you mess up on this climb chances are you will hurt your self and a few people below since this is a crowded cliff most days.... If you do choose to climb it make sure there is no one below you and you are up for a poorly protected adventure...
Start under Egg McMeadows and follow easy holds up and right in to the vegetated grove to the right of that climb... Climb poorly protected but moderate rock till you get a stance and place some gear under a steeper wall... Move left on dirty slab and up to a dirt/mud gully... I remember when i did this route years ago this finish gully was all mud and i took my shoes off and "climbed" (laughing my ass off) in ankle deep mud to the trees at the top...
Location
The vegetated grove right of Egg McMeadows...
Protection
Normal rack but you wont use much... i remember using a nut tool to dig mud out of a crack...
The Parking Lot Wall
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