I'm torn on this route cause it has cool moves for sure and some beautiful jugs on steep rock... However it reminds me a bit of Bone Head Roof (5.10) at the Meadows in that when you are pulling the crux you are really counting on your belayer to keep you off the ledge below you... that aspect makes it slightly less attractive...
Climb up the 5.9 boulder problem start to a big ledge... Walk over to the bolt under the big roof clip it and decide hoe you want to tackle this thing... Surprisingly nice jugs lead to the only non jug on the upper section which is the crux... After that you can stand up and clip the chains...
Location
30 feet right of Cafe au Lait (5.7)
Protection
6 bolts to anchors... if top roping the route be careful of the rope running across the sharp rock when hanging...
Ok i dont ever like to say a route is not worth climbing but after looking at this thing, i want a second opinion, is it worth getting on or is it better off being avoided and just sticking to the better climbs in the area?
I tried this soon after dave put it up and struggled. and like matt in my quest to finish the wall i did it this summer. definitely some burly moves and harder for shorter people.
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