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Juan Valdez 

5.10b

   

FA: paul wonsavage 11/96
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 439 page views

Submitted By: lee hansche on May 16, 2007


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Perking?...I think they mean Perky


Description 

Start in the corner right of 100% Columbian (5.11c). Follow good holds up and left to gain a layback flake....
The crux is high up the flake as you get a little pumped.... Get on top of the flake and head for the chains....

This climb felt a bit hard at the grade for me (though the only time I climbed it was finishing off a hard day, but I have friends that have it dialed and they seem to find the grade to be right on....
Fun times close to the parking lot.


Location 

Just right of 100% Columbian, 5.11c, starting in the corner and heading up and left in tho the big flake....


Protection 

5 bolts to quick clips.



Photos of Juan Valdez Slideshow Add Photo
Scramble up ledge on right, start with fun move to good pocket on the left

Scramble up ledge on right, start with fun move to...

Traverse left under flake using good underclings and jugs

Traverse left under flake using good underclings a...

climb up left side of flake. Try to stay on face of flake using good crimps with right hand and the flake for left hand

climb up left side of flake. Try to stay on face o...


Comments on Juan Valdez Add Comment
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By Jeffrey LeCours
Apr 19, 2009

Since I didn't see it mentioned, the first moves are somewhat thin... easy to ignore if tall + strong. :)

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Apr 19, 2009

I think thin may be a bit much for the description. If you miss the jug in that first move you will probably drop 3 or 4 feet to a ledge, but the first clip will keep you from going any further. That is assuming you scramble on to the ledge on the right first. If you're doing a direct start it may be a bit more interesting?

By Jeffrey LeCours
Apr 20, 2009

Looking at and reading the caption of your Photo, I'm realizing we started to the left on a crimpy rail just left of the first bolt. The ledge was still wet from the day before. Doh!

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Apr 20, 2009

makes sense. That i agree would be a little thin