Climb up easy ground to gain the crack...Then jam and STEM your way up the corner...making some use of the face hold will help...And again STEM....
Funny side note: When I was learning to trad climb, I would look at this intimidating steep corner often and say someday I'll get on that...But not today.... On one rainy day, for some reason, I was feeling bold and I said today's the day.... Long story short, I pissed myself (figuratively) all the way up the slick corner fearing for my life up to my elbows in the crack with muck dripping in to my arm pits....Looking for gear and realizing that the placements weren't all that straightforward.... I made it to the top, clipped in, and lowered with a big smile on my face covered in cuts and filth.... One slip and it could have been very different, but on that day I was happy to have lived life to its fullest....
The end....
Be safe and have fun....
Location
Just right of the beautiful face of Flesh For Lulu, there lies a corner with a crack running up it....
Protection
Regular rack to #3 cam, takes nuts and handish sized cams well...To quick clips....
The gear can be tricky, don't be fooled by its splitter looks.... It's not hard to protect, it's just easy to make mistakes....
By Andy Kowles From: Boulder, CO Jun 19, 2007 rating: 5.8+
This climb takes good pro but is sustained and strenuous for the grade. Fun stemming and liebacking up the slightly overhanging (and long if you ask me) crux section.
For gear bring an extra #2 Camalot or equivalent to sew it up. If you don't have the extra cam there is an inobvious large stopper placement up high. Slot and set the nut then run it out to the anchors...sick!!
This could be a scarefest for a leader new to the grade with only a standard rack.
Holderness Corner
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