For me, this climb was one I did once and tried to forget. The climb is awkward in the way it climbs up the sequence of ledges and you are always clipping a bolt strangely.
Clipping the anchors is by far the crux of this climb and shouldn't be attempted by a leader who isn't comfortable at the grade.
(*Added for clarification*- I am simply stating that the final holds are pumpy and awkward to reach. As a fall from the anchors while pulling up slack would be very painful, I suggest someone who's limit is 5.10 try this climb on TR to find the holds and become comfortable with them before s/he tries to lead this one.)
By the way, RhinoBUCKETS is a big of a misnomer. The holds on this route aren't all buckets, some of them can be difficult to hold on to for the grade, especially at the anchor. Although, there is a Rhino-shaped hold one the climb, it is a huge jug that resembles a rhino's horn if looked at the right way.(The previous sentence was added Post-Comment, thank you Chris Duca)
Location
Starts on big tree route just left of big boulder where the trail comes up from Flesh for Lulu.
Protection
8 bolts to anchor. Don't botch a clip on this climb or you'll be on your way down to one of those ledges you mantled so awkwardly earlier.
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont May 15, 2007 rating: 5.10b
True that this route may not be for everyone due to its' technical stemming and spicy moves above bolts, but that does not make it a route to be forgotten. On the contrary, it is a good test of intestinal fortitude (in other words: keeping your s**t together!).
Also, at about mid-height on the route, there is a hold--a big, juggy, hold--that, if looked at the right way, resembles a rhino's horn.
By the description I'd say you have every reason to do the route again.... I agree that there is only one "bucket" on the climb, but the route is well worthwhile and not too spicy once you learn the foot work and body positions.... As for clipping the anchors, don't clip them until you find the clipping hold and get comfortable.... There is a good hold up there....
The start can be a bit wet....
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 17, 2007
Perhaps I should, Lee.
I remember feeling like this climb wasn't fun. To add to my dislike for the climb, my climbing partner has told me it was 5.8, and I was using it to burn out for the day. Only after climbing it did I look at the guidebook. Consequently, I've always had a sour taste in my mouth about this one.
Also, I don't climb with that climbing partner anymore.
Ladd, you wrote that "Clipping the anchors is by far the crux of this climb and shouldn't be attempted by a leader who isn't comfortable at the grade."
Are you suggesting that the new leader jump from the anchors without clipping them? I know this is common practice on climbs such as Whip Tide and Predator, but I wonder if this "technique" has made it's way to the Meadows.
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 22, 2007
Jay, The victory whip from this climb would be bloody, I was just suggesting a leader try the climb first on TR to find the anchor clipping hold so that an unintentional victory-whip doesn't happen.
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 22, 2007
ok... C0
Pretty funny Jay, I know absolutely nothing about rating aid climbing, I almost put down C0 but I didn't know if the rating existed...so I chose C1, I remember seeing that rating somewhere.
Now, of course too late, I've actually educated myself a bit and understand the difference.
you know, this is getting to be pretty funny. This climb actually holds a pretty warm spot in my heart as it was my first 5.10 onsight (maybe not a true onsight as I had known the grade and probably seen somebody on it once as I had frequented the meadows a bit before) and I found the climbing pretty interesting. I was however, fresh from warming up and at the early part of my day, not tired and sandbagged.
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