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J-boat 

5.6

   

FA: mark sprague 2000
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Views: 57 page views

Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 25, 2007


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Description 

Not a wonderfully memorable climb but one you could do as you get used to trad climbing... I find that if you can place gear well at rumney you can place it almost anywhere... It can be pretty funky at times but if you take the time and practice you will find what you are looking for and learn a lot...

Basically the crux is a short section at the bottom, if done directly i feel like it might be a bit stiff but it goes pretty easy if you start to the left and traverse right to the ramp... the ramp is easy slab... Take the time to find the gear and you will have a good time, and don't forget to enjoy the view...

At the top of the ramp is an anchor which you can lower off above Sea Sick...


Location 

The cracked ramp heading up and right on the left end of the cliff... Tops out above and lowers off of Sea Sick 5.11c


Protection 

Normal trad rack does the trick... Lower from anchors...