Ara Finlayson shows the boys how to properly send ...
Description
Don't get bitten by the venomous lure of this Orange Crush ultra-classic!
Move after move, Black Mamba requires the climber to call on a full repertoire of corner and face climbing technique. Additionally, the holds you are gunning for, save for a select few, are not so obvious, making the redpoint that more elusive.
Two cruxes are encountered: The first is at about mid-height with a couple of thin moves above your last bolt to a clipping stance. The second crux involves a high left foot, a credit card for your right hand and a hidden hold out left. And it just so happens to be while the first set of anchors are staring you right in the eyes!
Most people climb to the first set of anchors, but for more enduro testing you can move left after the first set of anchors and climb the left trending, and pumpy face for 4 more bolts. This extension adds similar climbing and makes the route a solid 11c.
Location
At the bottom right end of the cliff is the prominent arete/right face of Prime Climb (another stellar and LOOOONG 11b). Black Mamba starts just to the left on top of a terrace looking feature.
Protection
6 bolts and chains. The first bolt is somewhat hidden from view.
I think this might be the best 5.11 at Rumney. The climbing is interesting, sustained, and the route is pretty long. All in all, an excellent route, especially if you go to the top, as the best climbing is on the upper half.
Orange Crush
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