Nancy and Keith in a sea of quickdraws. Upper left...
Description
This large and complex cliff sits relatively high on the hill. For that reason, Orange Crush is an excellent choice on hot days, as the wind tends to cool the cliff.
The left side of the cliff is very steep, almost horizontal. Farther right, the angle lessens but the routes get longer. Therefore, the climbing at Orange Crush varies from horizontal roof problems to technical vertical faces.
Because of the sketchy composition of the rock on Orange Crush, many of the routes required massive cleaning projects before their first ascents. This is not to say that the rock is bad, as the routes have improved with numerous ascents. The routes range from 5.8 to 5.13b, with must do classics including: Tropicana 11a, Black Mamba 11b, The Crusher 11d, and Rumney's most photogenic route, Predator 13b.
Getting There
Orange Crush is most commonly approached from the second, smaller parkinglot. A steep trail leads uphill from the lot and deposits one at New Wave Wall. Orange Crush is the big looming cliff to the left.
Alternatively, Orange Crush may be approached from Main Cliff. Simply skirt the cliff on the right side and head uphill. To reach Orange Crush from the more western crags, follow a trail through the woods from the top of Bonsai.
Note that the left-side routes at Orange Crush all start from a steep "death slab." To approach the slab and the start of routes like The Crusher, Tin Man, and Orangahang, a staircase allows passage over the steep bottom part of the slab. Be extra careful at the base of the aforementioned routes. It's a long way down from the slab.
You have seen images of this unmistakeable overhanging prow in magazines, on guidebook covers, and in climbing videos. You have wondered where this amazing piece of rock could possibly exist.The climb is called The Predator and it exists at Orange Crush.Long and steadily overhanging, but with few stopper moves, Predator is a popular first 13b. However, getting to the base is involved. Climb the first pitch of Tropicana (11a) and belay at two eye ...[more]
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