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Strict Scrutiny 

5.14a

   

FA: Justin Hayes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.14a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 289 page views

Submitted By: Andrew Palmer on Dec 19, 2008


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Description 

Fun climbing on small, small holds. Some interesting and low percentage moves lead to the traverse at the top of Dark Star into Paradox.

Although the climb is routinely published with the 5.14a grade, many have suggested that 5.13d may be more appropriate.


Location 

Located on the far right side of New Wave Wall, on the black face - it's the climb directly in front of you as you arrive at New Wave.

Strict Scrutiny follows Dark Star and then heads right into the crux of Paradox.


Protection 

8 fixed draws to the anchors.



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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 21, 2008

This is a great route, and in my opinion it is at least one letter grade harder than Dark Star. I've been able to link up to the top of Dark Star on many occasions, but continuing on the the higher anchors has been a battle.

So, I'd say if you give Dark Star 13c, the SS should be 13d. If you give Dark Star 13d, the SS is 14a, etc. But whatever, Strict Scrutiny is a cool route that actually climbs like an endurancy sport route, unlike many of Rumney's boulder problems.