This climb is wonderful. It is very aesthetic line, has extremely safe falls that still provide fear and it'll make for some frameable pictures. Make sure you bring your bag of tricks as you will encounter crimps, deadpoints, heelhooks, sidepulls, barndoors, pinches, fingerlocks, and a kneebar if you are observant. Balance, a couple of interesting rests and footwork will be rewarded.
Start out on easy ground, make the first clip and then get ready for the next 50 feet of business. Grab an undercling, make the move out onto the right face using crimps and make your first desperate move to the first jug of the climb at 25 feet. Make a big move up to another jug and set up for the crux, a series of crimps leading to the redpoint crux, clipping the 5th bolt off the flat ledge. Use your rest finding skills to find a left knee bar on the ledge and regroup before the final 5.10 layback moves up to the anchor.
This remarkable line is a must do for climbers 5'10" and over.
Location
Striking black arete is the center of the wall to the right of Black Dog Crack and Salley's Alley.
By lee hansche From: goffstown, nh Jul 3, 2008 rating: 5.12a
nice description ladd it makes me want to run out and climb it today!
so i know its rated 5.11d in the guide and i heard it was stiff so is 5.12a the current consensus or just your vote? im fully aware that it doesnt matter, just wondering...
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Jul 3, 2008
It is harder than Social Outcast, Peanut Man, and both 12s at Jimmy Cliff.
It is definitely 12a.
By lee hansche From: goffstown, nh Jul 4, 2008 rating: 5.12a
cool.. well im psyched to get on it some time...
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Jul 6, 2008 rating: 5.12a
Given the position and the moves, I like to think that this is the Chain Reaction of Rumney.
Great Route, the day I sent it I was belayed by the man who put it on the map! And yes, I agree with the 12a rating. It is harder then Peanut Man, even though I sent Vallee Daze before I sent Peanut Man.
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