A fun and somewhat varied route... There is a powerful hard crux and a pump crux... The rock is interesting with quarts deposits making for some cool moves...
Climb the first moderate boulder problem off the ground to a nice rest before the crux bulge (its only 10 feet up but i never refuse a rest when offered one)... Head up and left on jugs till they run out clip a bolts and head up in to the business... An awkward left hand hold is troubling but after a gastone or a crappy crimp (you decide) you will be rewarded with a good right hand... A few more moves get you to a mid way ledge... Milk the rest and work your way up the corner above laying back and making some sequency moves to gain the slightly sloping lip (this might be tough if you are pumped)... Find the good holds and clip the chains... Topping out is fun...
This might be a good 5.12 to do as your first if it fits your style... Its not hard in the grade but definitely 5.12...
Location
Middle left end of the cliff just right of the corner of barking spiders (5.11c)
New Wave
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