Mountain Project: Climbing Rumney

New Wave is a small sunny cliff up towards the top of Rattlesnake Mountain. The rock on the left side is lighter in color, and more rich in Mica than the rest of Rumney. So, New Wave literally sparkles in the sun. This lighter rock is well featured and well bolted, making Sally's Alley (11c), Weevil Knevil (12a), and Roaring Silence (13b) some of Rumney's most enjoyable routes. Air and Pleasant Danger, a classic 5.8, is an adventurous, exposed line that follows the far left edge of the cliff. The rock on the right side of the cliff offers more fantastic climbing. Dark Star (13c/d), a crimpy technical face on black rock, is a favorite when dry. Ace of Spades, a blunt arete that climbs like sandstone, is one of Rumney's best and most technical 5.10's.

Since New Wave packs so many excellent routes from 5.8 to 5.14 onto one ledge, it's low on elbow space if too many parties are there at one time. Make sure you don't drop any gear, dogs, or children off the edge. It's a long way down.

Getting There

Follow the trail toward Orange Crush from the second parking lot. Where the trail goes left to Orange Crush, walk up and right. Follow cut steps in a log and a narrow trail up the hill to the left side of New Wave. The blunt arete at the head of the trail is Ace of Spades.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New Wave:

Air and Pleasant Danger 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Smokestack 5.9+ Sport

Black Dog Crack 5.10a Sport

Ten of Spades 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch

Salley's Alley 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Barking Spiders 5.11c Sport

Vallee Daze 5.12a Sport, 75 feet

Weevil Knevil 5.12a Sport, 60 feet

Roaring Silence 5.13b Sport

Featured Route For New Wave

Smokestack 5.9+ NH : Rumney : New Wave

A wakeup call for sporty sport climbers I'm sure... You will find all kinds of moves on this route that are hard to find elsewhere at Rumney... Thought provoking chimneys,and cracks, even a little off-width technique will come in handy... Most of the bolts are close together but there are a couple that might make someone shaky if they are used to Rumney's close bolts...Start up the chimney, remember that using your feet well will help you conserv...[more] Browse More Classics in NH

Comments on New Wave

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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 9, 2007

Many of the climbs on the left side of this cliff have a belay bolt, use it if your leader isn't solid at the grade(just remember to not keep you leash too tight).

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 3, 2009

Does anyone know what the routes are to the right of 10 of Spades? you know the ones right by the trail to Kennel Wall.... i've climbed them but i don't know names, grades and order of the ones that aren't in the book...

By Jeffrey LeCours
Sep 4, 2009

The internetz have told me that they might be:

Night Crawler - 5.9 (Balancey slab moves)
Schist Another Crack - 5.7 (trad gear to tree)

... but maybe someone who knows what they're talking about can confirm :)

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 4, 2009

thanks jeff but i think those are the ones in the old book.... there are now 3 bolted routes here im not sure if one is the 5.7 trad route thats been retroed... but i dont think so... anyway, thanks for your help and i guess we will keep researching, then i can finish my New Wave map :)

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New Wave

Description

Getting There

The Classics