Most people avoid this route like the plague, but it's actually really a fun route (and it's never crowded). Climb out the near horizontal v-shaped chimney with great effort. There are some jams, fingerlocks, and fist stacks in the back, but for the most part it's a thrash, smearing and contorting yourself in hopes of staying wedged in there somehow. I've wondered a couple times if it might be marginally safer to lead it on gear - there are obvious placements, way in the back of the crack, while the bolts appear to be placed as far back as a drill would fit but not as far back as might be ideal - falls can be exciting because of how low the route is to the ground and the boulders that rise up underneath it. It could be very easy to deck if you blew any of the clips.
Location
Between Feeding Frenzy and Triskadekaphobia - you can't miss the overhung V.
I've just been waiting for this route to dry out so i can give it a try... some climbers thrive on misery i guess, haha... but for real i think it might be my style, only time will tell... doing it on gear sounds fun, hmmmm...
there is a photo/topo of this route on the Monsters main page...
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Apr 4, 2008
This is a great route to get on when your tips are fried as you don't really hold onto anything. Plus, when else would you have a chance to get on a 12d squeeze chimney?
This route is about as unique as it gets. Very worth a go, but be prepared to have your belayer laughing at you as you struggle for every inch.
finally got on it today... WOW... though i do like this style of climb (lots of foot work not much hard pulling) i was a bit confused on how to finish it up... my legs have never been so pumped...
After coming tantalizingly close to an onsight, I could barely walk down to the road. This gets my vote for the most action packed 15' of climbing in the northeast.
By David Aguasca From: Plymouth, NH May 3, 2009 rating: 5.12-
agreed...like so many of the routes at monsters, deceivingly short, but every inch counts, literally. probably much harder for tall people, so kudos, lee.
tried this today for the first time. i got to the last bolt but realized that my legs were too pumped for me to let go of the slopey holds in the crack and make the clip....i've definitely never experienced that before.
Thanks for the kudos but i havent sent it yet... Im planning on getting on it soon however and ill let you know how it goes... i still dont know how to do the last 5 feet to the lip...
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