Most people avoid this route like the plague, but it's actually really a fun route (and it's never crowded). Climb out the near horizontal v-shaped chimney with great effort. There are some jams, fingerlocks, and fist stacks in the back, but for the most part it's a thrash, smearing and contorting yourself in hopes of staying wedged in there somehow. I've wondered a couple times if it might be marginally safer to lead it on gear - there are obvious placements, way in the back of the crack, while the bolts appear to be placed as far back as a drill would fit but not as far back as might be ideal - falls can be exciting because of how low the route is to the ground and the boulders that rise up underneath it. It could be very easy to deck if you blew any of the clips.
Location
Between Feeding Frenzy and Triskadekaphobia - you can't miss the overhung V.
I've just been waiting for this route to dry out so i can give it a try... some climbers thrive on misery i guess, haha... but for real i think it might be my style, only time will tell... doing it on gear sounds fun, hmmmm...
This is a great route to get on when your tips are fried as you don't really hold onto anything. Plus, when else would you have a chance to get on a 12d squeeze chimney?
This route is about as unique as it gets. Very worth a go, but be prepared to have your belayer laughing at you as you struggle for every inch.
finally got on it today... WOW... though i do like this style of climb (lots of foot work not much hard pulling) i was a bit confused on how to finish it up... my legs have never been so pumped...
Monsters from the Id
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