The weirdness begins on Journey. Photo by Kayte De...
Description
One of the best "sport" routes I've ever touched...a truly classic climb on a system of cracks and features out a relentlessly steep wall and a roof.... Plagued by wetness, this route would see many more ascents if it dried out more often.... When it does dry, it is a must climb for anyone who can keep up with this powerful, interesting route that requires some crazy beta.... From the double knee-bar to a foot-cam over your head and much more this Journey is bound to keep you on your toes....
Journey is a trad line that is fixed with gear and draws (hence it is marked sport and trad).... So, have at it, and whip at will....
P.S. some folks like to climb it like a crack while others go at it like a powerful burl-fest either way it is likely to kick your ass for a while.... So, play it to your strengths....
Location
Look for the line of fixed gear in the crack.... That's the one....
Protection
Fixed trad gear with draws in place.... Stick clip the first piece....
Add CommentComments on Journey to a Mushroom Planet
the fixed gear was removed from this climb so that folks could lead it while placing gear (i hope some day i can too) as far as i know those who wished to, have sent it... i need to work it so i fixed gear on it today and plan to leave it up for a while so me and anyone who wants can work it with gear in place... if my gear is in the way let me know and i will remove it...
i forgot to bring webbing for the thread that is normally the second clip so right now i have a solid nut in a slightly less perfect location which ill replace with webbing next time im on it...which will be soon...
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Sep 12, 2007
The first placement was two nuts, one has blown out so now there is only one nut for the first piece. The other nut remains dangling from the carabiner.
there used to be a more elaberate set up on the first piece... when i put the gear back in recently i just put another nut in next to the nasty stuck piece just incase... just put the other nut in and go for it... it looked good when i left it... it prolly just got knocked loose from use...
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Sep 13, 2007
if some one took the gear down for ethical purposes thats cool cause i agree that it looks better as a nice clean crack to go at fully trad style... i hope however that the ethics of this person also include getting my gear back to me...
my name is lee hansche and i work at vertical dreams climbing gym in manchester 603-625-6919... i think i had 4or5 nuts and 3or4 draws and a few biners on the route... it all adds up to $$$...
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Oct 29, 2007
i hear that my gear was taken by the same person or persons who took the ladder down at waimea, for ethical purposes... as far as the gear goes, as i said before i just want it back... ill keep my ethical opinions to my self...
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Mar 7, 2008
oh yeah sorry i should have posted this before... i did get my gear back... i decided not to fix gear on it again cause i had other routes i wanted to climb... and didnt feel like playing in the "ethics battle" any more...
Monsters from the Id
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