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Goldfinger aka Goldmember 

5.12c

   

FA: ?
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12c [details]
Views: 60 page views

Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 4, 2008


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Description 

Another very worth while extension on Main Cliff, better for sure than the original extension to Goldbug (Goldbug Finish 5.12b)... This one heads out left then up a steep crimpy wall with much shorter reaches than its neighbor to the right and a similar fun sloper mantel crux/finish...

Start by climbing Goldbug (5.10d) or the Gold Digger to Goldbug link up (Digger-bug 5.8+ish) clip a long draw on the anchor and traverse left to clip the first bolt on Goldfinger... Head up following the eyebolts up the steep face which is climbed on for the most part very straight forward crimps... The first crux i would say is about half way up the crimp section where the feet sort of aren't where you want them (kinds missing a right foot) just paste your foot and go... "Thank god" crimps above this hard move give you a shake out and get you to the sloper finish and once you mantel, the anchor awaits...

I found it hard to clip the 4th bolt until i was halfway through the top out, which works fine, however, a long draw may help you clip from lower down if you dont like climbing hard moves a bit above your last bolt...


Location 

Start at the anchor for Goldbug (5.10d)...


Protection 

From the Goldbug anchor its 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor...