Placing gear in schist is often tricky due to the strange grain of the rock... I recommend practicing placing gear at Rumney on routes like this because when you get out on granite or sandstone the gear seems so obvious and easy to place in comparison... It's also a great route to warm up on if you are getting on the routes in the 5.8 to 5.10 range that are found in the vicinity...
Climb the left facing left leaning crack/flake below the big ledge at Main Cliff's central area just right of the leaning boulder... After laying back and finger locking you will get to a few moderate face moves that lead to a nice stance and the 2 bolt anchor... The cool texture on the first half of the route make for really nice foot options... The gear can be tricky but solid...
Location
just left of the boulder leaning against the lower wall at the center of Main Cliff...
Protection
Bring a very small rack, some nuts and finger to thin hand cams...
Main Cliff
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