This is perhaps the best 5.9 at Rumney offering two pitches of airy climbing on the far right side of the Iron Man Wall. The first pitch warms you up with 100 ft of quality moderate (5.7) climbing following corner systems. The second starts out with a bang, with an exposed, pumpy traverse out flakes. Then a short slab gets you to another overhanging hand traverse and mantel to a rest, then the final thirty feet of airy finish. This route is a great outing with excellent positioning and views of the Main Cliff and the Baker River valley below.
The leader should be comfortable with 5.9 as the traverse moves off the first anchor are relatively stiff and intimidating (good positive holds though ;-)
Location
Starts on the right hand side of the Iron Man Wall section. Just right of Gold Digger, climb up to an easy right leaning scrambly ramp, then up into a nice corner, following eyebolts to an excellent belay ledge. 5.7
Pitch 2: Head out left on the big flake system past a few bolts, then mantel and head up to a notch with an overhang above. Undercling and reach the top of the overhang and hand traverse right until you can mantel over. Get a shake, then head right around the arete into the exposure and up. Finishes straight up on flakes to a bolted anchor. From here, lower back to the belay and belay your second. From the belay you can just get down to the base the way you came with a 60m rope. Be especially careful of loose stones on your descent and while pulling the rope as there are usually people below.
Protection
All bolted with bolted anchors. Take some slings and longer draws.
Im guessing 15 ft. Its all glue-ins. Don't go all the way to the Rawl bolt. That is for an unfinished project that comes close to RDJD at that point and could cause confusion
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