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As The World Burns 

5.12b

   

FA: Mark Sprague 8/00
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 210 feet
Views: 256 page views

Submitted By: M Sprague on Sep 18, 2007


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Description 

As The World Burns is an often overlooked second pitch from the anchors of Thin Man that offers wild, exposed and pumpy climbing up through the steep center of the Iron Man Wall.

Highly recommended if you want to hang it out above the crowds.


Location 

The Thin Man Anchors can be reached by climbing Underdog or Peanutman and traversing left. From the anchors head left and up a steep face, then make a pumpy traverse right under a roof before pulling it and tackling the final steepness to gain a nice belay ledge. If continuing up The Thing, belay here. If not walk right to the other anchors and bring your second up. Rap from here with a 60m rope. You can lower from the left hand anchors if you have a 70m or tram in back to Thin Man, pull your rope, and rap again.

There is a pin above the roof and an obvious extra bolt on the lower face that were used as aid for cleaning and bolting that still need to be removed. Be sure not to clip them or you will add a lot of drag. A sling or two and longish draws will keep everything running smoothly as you fight the pump near the top.


Protection 

Bolts to a bolted anchor.



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By M Sprague
May 6, 2009

I never see people on this route and always wonder why. I guess it is since it is a second pitch and the exposure may be scary looking to some.

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 6, 2009

I got on it and wasnt too impressed with it (which is rare for me) really the extra pins etc made it a little unatractive and i couldnt decide where it went... im sure its cool once you figure it out maybe ill get on it again sometime... as for it being a second pitch, i love second pitches, no lines!

By M Sprague
May 6, 2009

Ya, sorry about the extra gear. Whenever I have gotten back to that wall I have had to accommodate my partners and haven't been able to get up there with the tools. Once you have come up to the roof, head right a little more then you might think before tackling the headwall...no need to go all the way into the corner with the loose stuff though

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 7, 2009

Thanks for the beta mark...