Every time I climb this route I am ecstatic to have discovered it again. It's so good you can't even remember how good it is until you're back on it. Start upward after a small tree stump left of the belay bolt to a good stance below a vertical section, the crux of the route. Here a good sequence goes a long way. Get a good rest (which involves using your head--physically) then move up toward a mantel on big holds. The mantel can be scary, but is safe. Get another good rest then pull over the lip for a fun, technical bit of climbing to the top.
Location
Scramble up and left below Goldbug, then traverse left below Underdog and Peanut Man to gain a wider ledge. Millenium is at the far left side of this ledge w/ an eyebolt for the belayer. Don't climb straight up from the belay bolt (as I did on my first try on Millenium. This leads to Gunboat Diplomacy which is quite a bit harder and can ruin your day if you think you're signing up for a 10c), but traverse yet farther left across some mildly chossy rock hanging over a drop off to find the first true bolt of Millenium Falcon.
Protection: Very frequently bolted, I skipped many of the bolts because I could reach the next one form the same stance. It would be awesome it you were looking to break into 5.10c.
11 bolts (some eyebolts, some normal hangers) 1 piton (in a terrible loose block, skip it if you feel comfy)
Quick Clips for anchors.
Careful pulling your rope, mine got twisted something fierce and I had to climb it again to get it unstuck (1st time for everything).
Also, bring some extendable draws, they help with the rope drag...especially the first bolt. it might even be a good idea to clean the first bolt once you've clipped the second, and avoid the whole thing altogether.
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