Every time I climb this route I am ecstatic to have discovered it again. It's so good you can't even remember how good it is until you're back on it. Start upward after a small tree stump left of the belay bolt to a good stance below a vertical section, the crux of the route. Here a good sequence goes a long way. Get a good rest (which involves using your head--physically) then move up toward a mantel on big holds. The mantel can be scary, but is safe. Get another good rest then pull over the lip for a fun, technical bit of climbing to the top.
Location
Scramble up and left below Goldbug, then traverse left below Underdog and Peanut Man to gain a wider ledge. Millenium is at the far left side of this ledge w/ an eyebolt for the belayer. Don't climb straight up from the belay bolt (as I did on my first try on Millenium. This leads to Gunboat Diplomacy which is quite a bit harder and can ruin your day if you think you're signing up for a 10c), but traverse yet farther left across some mildly chossy rock hanging over a drop off to find the first true bolt of Millenium Falcon.
Protection: Very frequently bolted, I skipped many of the bolts because I could reach the next one form the same stance. It would be awesome it you were looking to break into 5.10c.
11 bolts (some eyebolts, some normal hangers) 1 piton (in a terrible loose block, skip it if you feel comfy)
Quick Clips for anchors.
Careful pulling your rope, mine got twisted something fierce and I had to climb it again to get it unstuck (1st time for everything).
Main Cliff
RSS Feed
